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Choose
Your Perfect Fuzzy Match
© Erika Matulich, Ph.D.
The big
day is finally here: time to choose your pet ferret. If you visit a
shelter, breeder, or pet store, you will usually be faced with many
ferrets, and you can't take them all home! How can you pick out
the best ferret for you? Your choice of ferret should depend on your
experience level, where you are getting your ferret, the ferret himself,
and your personal preferences. Here are some general guidelines.
First of all, new ferret owners should adopt older ferrets, not kits
(baby ferrets). Kits are a challenging handful more suited to
experienced ferret owners. A 2-year-old ferret is ideal for a first-time
ferret owner. The best place to get a ferret this age is at a shelter.
If you are up to the demands of a kit (you'll have to train her not to
nip or chew and teach her to use a litter box—no small task), they are
available at breeders and pet stores. Make sure the dealer is not
selling any kits less than 8 weeks of age. Early weaning can cause
medical and behavioral problems in a ferret.
When selecting a ferret, good health is the
first thing to look for. (Worry about size, gender, and fur
color later.) A healthy ferret should have bright eyes of equal size
(not runny or crusty), clean ears (no odor, wax, or ear mites), clean
teeth (no tartar, chipped teeth, bad breath, or inflamed or swollen
gums), and long, shiny whiskers (not broken or brittle).
A ferret's nose can be cold and wet or dry and warm—this is not a
health indicator. Just make sure the nose is not running! The fur should
be silky and soft, and the skin should be free of parasites, bumps, and
red or flaky patches. Foot pads should not look dry or scaly, and nails
should be trimmed and not split. Also, be sure the ferret can walk
around with no limping, staggering, or wobbling.
Does the ferret have a vaccination record? Kits should have a series of
three distemper shots (Fervac-D or Galaxy-D) by the time they are 4
months old and a rabies shot (IMRAB-3) by the time they are 6 months
old. Adult ferrets should have had an annual rabies and distemper shot
within the last year.
Along with these medical records (which you may need to license your
ferret, depending on where you live), check to see if a health guarantee
comes with your ferret. Some sellers offer such a guarantee to ensure
that you have purchased a ferret free from illness or congenital defect
(these guarantees do not cover illnesses later on in the ferret's life).
Another key to determining whether a ferret
is healthy is to look at how the ferret has been cared for. Has she been
provided with an appropriate cage, litter box, and bedding? Are these
items clean? There should be no wood shavings in the ferret's
environment, no clumping litter, and no dangerous toys.
Is adequate fresh food and water available? Is the food appropriate for
ferrets? (I once rescued a malnourished ferret who had been eating dog
biscuits and cereal, had no water or litter box, and had bleeding foot
pads from being kept in a hamster cage with a wire floor). Has the
ferret been kept indoors? Outdoor ferrets who have been exposed to heat
or mosquitos can develop severe health problems.
A final word on health: Shelters may adopt out a “special needs”
ferret to an experienced ferret owner who knows exactly how to care for
that ferret. Even if you feel sorry for the ferret, avoid purchasing a
ferret with special needs from a pet store if the ferret has had no
veterinary evaluation. Some pet stores provide a guarantee, but you'll
be heartbroken if you to have to return the pet (and these “defective”
ferrets are often destroyed).
After making sure the ferrets you are
choosing from are healthy, you should pay attention to personality. Is
the ferret alert and interested in interacting with you? These are good
signs. Try squeezing a squeaky toy to see if the ferret reacts (one who
doesn't may be ill or deaf).
Try playing with the ferret. Does she want to cavort with you or cuddle?
A ferret who always tries to get away when picked up or invited to play
may not be the ferret for you. However, give yourself (and the ferret)
plenty of time for interaction. It could be the ferret is tired or
hungry, or even that she has to go to the bathroom.
Does the ferret playfully nip you in an invitation to play, or does he
bite you hard and run in fear? How does the seller react to this
situation? If the seller reacts to a nip or bite by physically punishing
the ferret (slap or nose flick), go elsewhere. Ferrets don't respond
well to physical discipline and may come to mistrust human beings.
There are not many personality differences between girl and boy ferrets,
although some people say females are more active and males are more
cuddly. I think it's really up to the ferret, because I've had plenty of
cuddly females and active males. The major difference is size: Males are
twice as large as females and will eat (and poop) more.
Spaying a female costs more than neutering a male, but in most cases,
the ferret you get will already be fixed. (If the ferret is not fixed,
make plans to do so before your pet is 6 months old. Unneutered male
ferrets become very aggressive and smelly, and unspayed females can die
if they are not bred when they go into heat.)
I hope these tips will help you to choose the ideal ferret—or ferrets—for
you. Ferrets are about as irresistible as potato chips; it's true you
can't take them all home, but you might have trouble getting out the
door with just one!

Ferret
colors and markings
Ferrets are most
commonly a variation of brown colors (called sable). Albino
ferrets—who have whitish yellow fur and red eyes—are also
quite common.
Ferrets also come in a variety of markings. Those with the
standard marking have a white face with a dark mask around the
eyes (the mask gets more prominent in summer); the legs and tail
are typically slightly darker than the body. “Mitt” ferrets—those
with white feet and a white bib at the throat—are fairly
common as well.
Blaze ferrets—those with a white stripe between the ears down
to the nose—are also plentiful. In many (but not all) blazes,
the white stripe is associated with Waardenburg syndrome, which
typically results in deafness. For the same reason, panda
ferrets (a genetic mutation in which the blaze's white “stripe”
covers the entire head) are often deaf, too. Deaf ferrets pose
potential behavioral and training problems.
Specialty ferrets include pandas and color-diluted ferrets such
as silvers (salt-and-pepper), cinnamons (red-orange), and
dark-eyed whites. There is also the rare and expensive
long-coated angora ferret, imported from Sweden. Specialty
ferrets don't have as much genetic diversity as other ferrets do
and can experience more health problems.
Deafness and other genetic problems associated with certain
types of ferrets could be decreased through responsible
breeding. Unfortunately, not all breeders and distributors are
responsible.
When you're looking for a healthy ferret, a rare coat should not
be your first priority. (But if you're looking for a shelter
ferret who needs a home, they come in all colors!) The color
with the best genetic diversity is sable, followed by albino.
Also, a sable mitt would be potentially healthier than a sable
panda.
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